Domäne Wachau Riesling Smaragd Achleiten, 2023 vintage, comes from the Wachau valley in Austria. Smaragd is the top category for dry wines here, named after the emerald lizards that bask on the terraces. The bouquet is layered: ripe white peach, apricot, mature citrus and candied peel over mineral, slaty and lightly smoky tones. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, with a noble acidity, deep mineral structure and a very long spiced citrus finish. Serve at 10–12 °C in a large glass: too cold and the wine loses its bouquet, while a wide bowl lets it open. Pairings to match — lobster and langoustine, roast halibut, scallops in cream sauce, duck with fruit sauce and dishes with porcini.